The Stinky French Sausage 法國臭香腸

埃米莉·莫納科/文 盧屹/譯

One volunteer-based group is committed to preserving this cultural legacy.

一個以志愿者為主的團隊致力于保護這一文化遺產。

The Telegraph writes that it “looks， smells， and tastes as if it should be in a lavatory，” while CNN reports it has “an easily identifiable aroma of decay.” Theyre talking about andouillette， a tripe sausage hailing from1 Frances Champagne region thats as divisive as it is beloved by those who can stomach it.

《每日電訊報》的文章稱它“看起來、聞起來、吃起來都像是廁所里的東西”，而美國有線電視新聞網報道說，它有“一種易于辨認的腐臭味”。這兩句說的都是安杜伊萊特香腸，一種來自法國香檳地區的內臟香腸。它既惹人爭議，又讓吃得下它的人愛不釋口。

Andouillette boasts several regional variants， but its most well-known form is associated with the city of Troyes： pork tripe is soaked， scalded， sliced， and seasoned with aromatics like onions， nutmeg， and even Champagne. It is then threaded by hand into its casing and simmered for several hours before being sold.

安杜伊萊特香腸有幾種因地區而異的做法，其中最有名的一種與特魯瓦市有關。當地人把豬肚浸泡、汆燙、切片，再用洋蔥、肉蔻，甚至香檳酒等芳香佐料來調味。然后，人們用手將豬肚灌入腸衣，燉煮幾小時后即可出售。

Its a style that， according to legend， is so delicious it distracted the royal army from their mission to reclaim Troyes during the Wars of Religion， giving the Catholic League the opportunity to counter-attack.

據傳，用這個方法做出來的香腸非常美味，致使宗教戰爭期間執行收復特魯瓦任務的皇家軍隊只顧大快朵頤，給了天主教聯盟反攻的機會。

“On that day， andouillettes de Troyes made history，” says Laurent Jolivet， president and founder of POPY， a group that controls much of the market share of artisanal andouillette production.

“就在那一天，特魯瓦的安杜伊萊特香腸創造了歷史?！盤OPY集團的創始人兼總裁洛朗·若利韋表示。手工安杜伊萊特香腸制品的大半市場份額就掌握在POPY集團手中。

Today， andouillette represents just two percent of French charcuterie production， and as the French slowly fall out of love with their ancestral cured meats， andouillette bears the brunt of2 the burden.

如今，安杜伊萊特香腸僅占法國熟食制品產量的2%，而且隨著法國人逐漸厭棄祖傳的腌肉，安杜伊萊特香腸首當其沖。

This is just one of the issues currently faced by the Association Amicale des Amateurs dAndouillette Authentique （Friendly Association of Lovers of Authentic Andouillette）， a group that， according to its current president， Jacques-Louis Delpal， “was born as a joke，” when five food critics began hosting regular andouillette-focused gatherings in the 1950s. Delpal， too， says he took his presidency “for a laugh” at first.

這只是“正宗安杜伊萊特香腸愛好者友好協會”（簡稱AAAAA或5A）當前面臨的問題之一。據現任主席雅克-路易·德爾帕爾稱，該協會的“誕生實屬玩笑之舉”。上世紀50年代，五位美食評論家開始定期以安杜伊萊特香腸為主題舉辦聚會。德爾帕爾說自己一開始接任主席也是“出于好玩”。

“But over time，” he says， “I started to take things a bit more seriously. I have to.” And thats because this saus-age can be even worse than its critics claim.

他說：“但是隨著時間推移，我開始認真起來。我不得不認真?！边@是因為這種香腸的處境可能比評論家們說的更糟糕。

“When youve tasted a few， its quite clear，” says Delpal. “Either its very， very good， or its disgusting. Theres no middle ground.”

“要是你嘗過幾種，就會明白?！钡聽柵翣栒f，“要么好吃得要命，要么惡心得要死。沒有中間地帶?！?/p>

Its the AAAAAs mission to separ-ate these “aggressive” andouillettes from the crème de la crème3. They make these decisions at a biannual tasting organized at Parisian charcuterie school CEPROC. Today， about 25 producers—both industrial and artisanal—boast the 5A diploma.

AAAAA的使命就是把“添亂的”安杜伊萊特香腸從精品中區分出來。巴黎瑟鉑克熟食制品烹飪學校每年舉辦兩次安杜伊萊特香腸品鑒會，會上AAAAA對送評香腸作出認定?，F在，已有約25家工業生產商或手工生產者獲得了5A證書。

Culinary journalist and 5A vice president Vincent Ferniot noted that the most important factor in their decision-making is： “If we were served this andouillette in a restaurant with the 5A label， would we be disappointed？”

美食記者兼5A副主席樊尚·費爾尼奧指出，他們最看重的考量因素是：“在有5A標志的餐館里吃到這個安杜伊萊特香腸，我們會失望嗎？”

Unlike the AOP4 or AOC5， the 5A diploma is not recognized at the national level， and the volunteer-based organ- ization doesnt have the funds to sue. All they can do is ask nicely， says Ferniot.

不同于AOP或AOC證書，5A證書并非國家級認證，而且5A這個以志愿者為主的組織也沒錢打官司。費爾尼奧說，他們能做的只有客氣地提出要求。

Its sneaky but understandable that a bistro owner would lie about the provenance of his andouillette. After all， 5A is a marker of quality， which paves the way for a higher price tag.

小餐館的老板謊報店里安杜伊萊特香腸的來源，雖然可鄙，但也能理解。畢竟，5A是高品質的標志，也為提高標價做了鋪墊。

“French people hate paying more for sausage or offal or charcuterie，” Delpal says. “Theyll pay a lot for big cuts of meat or wine， but for an andouillette， when it costs more than 22， 24 euros at a restaurant， they find that expensive. And thats not really fair， because theres a lot more work in an andouillette than in an entrec?te.”

“法國人不喜歡為香腸、下水、熟食多花錢?！钡聽柵翣栒f，“他們愿意為大塊肉排或者葡萄酒花一大筆錢。說起安杜伊萊特香腸，一旦餐館要價超過22或24歐元，他們就覺得太貴。這實在是不太公平，因為做安杜伊萊特香腸可比做大塊牛排費工夫得多?！?/p>

And its work that takes quite a lot of time and effort to master， not in the least because charcuterie school doesnt actually teach this skill. “They teach charcuterie on the whole， hygiene and all that，” says Delpal. “But to make an andouillette？ For that， you need to go to the source.”

制作安杜伊萊特香腸也是一種要花大量時間和精力才能掌握的活計，尤其是因為熟食制品烹飪學校其實并不教授這項技能?！八麄兘淌谑焓车囊话阒R，衛生要求之類的?！钡聽柵翣栒f，“要做安杜伊萊特香腸？你要找到源頭?！?/p>

One such source is Christophe Thierry， an AAAAA-recognized charcutier just outside of Troyes. According to Delpal， “pretty much all” of the charcutiers who want to learn this traditional art “spend a day or two” with Thierry.

源頭之一就是克里斯托夫·蒂埃里，他是特魯瓦郊外一位AAAAA認證的熟食店主。據德爾帕爾說，“幾乎所有”希望學習這一傳統技藝的熟食店主都會“花一兩天”去請教蒂埃里。

“Hes one of the most serious ones out there，” he says. “Hes been the most consistent since the beginning.”

“他在行業里頭是最認真的人之一?！钡聽柵翣栒f，“打一開始就屬他最有恒心?！?/p>

Thierry is proud to propagate the art of this regional specialty at the charcuterie he inherited from his father.

在父親傳下來的熟食店里傳授制作本地特產香腸的訣竅，蒂埃里感到非常自豪。

“Of course I love doing it， otherwise I wouldnt have them！” he says of teaching fellow charcutiers. “Im always proud and happy to share.”

“我當然高興做這事，不然也不會讓他們來！”他在談到教授同行時說，“我一直都很自豪，也很樂于分享?！?/p>

Locals arent the only ones tempted by it， either. Kyotos Masaki Kubo first discovered andouillette at Paris Brasserie Lipp， and in 2013， he became the first （and only） non-French holder of an AAAAA diploma for the andouillette he makes and serves at his Kyoto bistro， Aux Bons Morceaux.

沉迷安杜伊萊特香腸的不只有當地人。來自京都的久保正樹最早在巴黎的力普啤酒館發現了安杜伊萊特香腸。2013年，他在自己位于京都的小餐館Aux Bons Morceaux制作和售賣安杜伊萊特香腸，并且憑借店里的香腸成為首位（也是唯一一位）非法國籍AAAAA證書持有人。

Charcutier Adrien De Loeuw took over Charcuterie Marc Colin in Chablis with his partner， Gaelle Hoefman， when Colin retired in 2019. They maintain the 5A certification and continue to make traditional andouillette， but， De Loeuw explains， they also “try to modernize it a bit” for a new generation. He has launched both an andouillette p?té en cro?te6， wrapped in puff pastry， as well as a milder andouillette sausage combining the tripe with meat and fat. The latter brings this dish， traditionally eaten in the winter， onto summertime tables， seeing as， De Loeuw notes， younger folks like to grill the sausage. This trend is nevertheless something Delpal says should be done with caution.

2019年馬克·科林退休后，熟食店主阿德里安·德洛烏和搭檔加埃爾·霍夫曼一起接手了科林位于沙布利的熟食店。他們保持著5A認證的質量，繼續制作傳統的安杜伊萊特香腸。不過，德洛烏解釋說，他們也為年輕一代“做了一點現代化的嘗試”。他推出了一款安杜伊萊特香腸餡的酥皮餡餅，還有一款將內臟、肉、脂肪混合后制成的氣味沒那么重的安杜伊萊特香腸。后者將這道冬日傳統美食搬上了夏日餐桌，因為德洛烏發現年輕人喜歡烤香腸。不過，德爾帕爾認為要謹慎對待這種潮流。

Thierry recommends eating it as simply as possible： “Plain or with a sauce made of Chaource， a local Brie-style cheese with a buttery， creamy center.”

蒂埃里建議吃法要盡量簡單：“直接吃，或者配一種用沙烏斯奶酪做的醬，這是本地一種布里風味的奶酪，其內芯濃醇絲滑?！?/p>

At Aux Bons Crus in Paris trendy 11th arrondissement， a restaurant modeled on the routier， Margot Dumant serves andouillette coated with a mustard cream sauce， appealing to older clients nostalgic for the once stalwart bistro classic， younger newcomers， and adventurous tourists alike.

在時髦的巴黎第11區，模仿卡車?？空镜牟蛷dAux Bons Crus里，瑪戈·迪芒推出了淋上芥末奶油醬的安杜伊萊特香腸。這款香腸既吸引了懷念往日小餐館經典主打菜的老客，也吸引了年輕的新客以及獵奇的游客。

“You really have to suss out7 the client，” she says. While she used to tell foreign diners that andouillette was “a type of sausage，” she has since modified her sales pitch to indicate its assertiveness.

“你必須充分了解顧客?！钡厦⒄f。她以前跟外國食客說安杜伊萊特香腸是“一種香腸”，現在她改進了推銷話術，以彰顯這種香腸的鮮明特質。

Some who brave it are surprised by how much they enjoy it. The food website The Daily Meal， after mocking its smell and claiming its “best eaten with a peg on your nose，” acquiesced in saying that “the taste is really pretty good.” Terry Durack at Australian Traveller writes that its “heaven on a plate... if you can get past the aggressive aroma.”

一些勇于嘗試的人發現自己竟然很喜歡吃安杜伊萊特香腸。美食網站“每日一道菜”上的文章先是嘲笑它的氣味，稱“最好把鼻子夾住再吃”，后來又承認“味道確實非常不錯”?！栋拇罄麃喡眯姓摺冯s志的特里·杜拉克撰文說它是“盤中的天堂美味……如果你受得了那種刺鼻的氣味”。

But the fact that andouillette is div-isive is not necessarily a bad thing， according to Ferniot. In a globalized world of Instagrammable gourmet doughnuts and samey lacto-ferments on tables from Copenhagen to New York， theres something comforting about the perennity of something so polarizing.

然而，費爾尼奧認為，安杜伊萊特香腸惹人爭議的現象未必是壞事。在一個全球化的世界里，從哥本哈根到紐約，餐桌上既有網紅甜甜圈，也有乏味的乳酸發酵制品，而安杜伊萊特香腸這樣喜惡兩極化的食物經久不衰，多少令人欣慰。

Of andouillette， he says， “There are loads of people who hate it.”

談到安杜伊萊特香腸，費爾尼奧說：“不喜歡它的人多得很?！?/p>

“But when its good，” he adds， “its like nothing else.”

“但只要做得好，那滋味就無敵了?！彼a充道。

（譯者為“《英語世界》杯”翻譯大賽獲獎者）

1 hail from來自；出生于。

2 bear the brunt of sth承受某事的主要壓力；首當其沖。

3 crème de la crème〈法語〉精華。? 4 AOP = Appellation dOrigine Protégée原產地命名保護認定。? 5 AOC = Appellation dOrigine Controllé原產地命名控制認定。自2009年8月起，由AOP取代。

6 p?té en cro?te〈法語〉餡餅。? 7 suss out意識到；認識到；發現。