季風吹過印度尼西亞

文 圖| 譚 濤

01 烏魯瓦圖斷崖

三毛喜歡在旅途中用心靈捕捉那瞬息萬變的感覺，細微卻觸動讀者共鳴的神經，像微風吹過胡須，真實而難以捕捉。

我把行李打點到最簡單，希望成為流浪的三毛。

初次踏上印度尼西亞的土壤，我內心的第一觸感，不是腳步初探的聲音，也不是歡聲笑語的酒吧和豪華舒適的酒店，更不是遙遠蔚藍的海洋和金色迷人的沙灘，而是無意識想起多年前讀過的一本書 ——《想象的共同體》，在想象的共同體心理下生發的民族情懷，以及印尼所展現出來的異域風采。

異域，總是和心靈的遷徙、他者的觀望、時間的短暫這些詞匯相互勾連。

語言的“巴別塔”

從巴厘島登巴薩到烏布，我們決定依靠緣分臨時租車，不知是偶然的幸運，還是必然的如此，我們遇到了熱心的司機Puja。

Puja 是一位中年大叔，中等身材，喜歡穿一身黑色短袖，肚皮微凸，皮膚黝黑，大眼睛里閃爍著平靜溫和，典型的樂天派風格。這種第一印象，不自覺地在我心里形成了對巴厘島男性的符號印象——親切熱情自然地流露于害羞與樸實中。

Puja 愛笑，一路上總喜歡把語言的“洋涇浜”融入到幽默之中。在澎湃的全球化浪潮中，如今的巴厘島，在語言上彼此妥協，形成了土著語（印尼話、巴厘島話）、英語、漢語等相互纏繞的巴別塔。

汽車行駛在烏布狹窄的公路上，在城市的喧囂中走走停停，向內陸山地延伸而去。烏布郊區的村落是紅色的，在起伏的綠色田野中躺著，包裹在綠色的稻田里，星星點點，散落在整個世界的綠里。偶爾出現的幾棵椰子樹，突兀在稻田里，又將村落點綴在自然錯落的空間中。

Puja用略顯生疏的英語介紹著村子、梯田，又用英語為我們翻譯當地人的土著話。我們明白后，又不亦樂乎地問他應該怎么發音。

我們路過一個大型超市，這個超市修建在郊區，外面的停車場停滿了車輛。在我們驚訝于人流量的同時，也看到了經濟驅動下的文化交流，旅游這個詞把歐美、大洋洲、亞洲的距離縮短，在烏布的超市里，演繹著陌生的相逢和文化的交集。

同伴走進了超市，我與司機站在路邊，我遞給他一支煙，陷入了短暫的沉默。公路上穿梭的汽車呼嘯而過，把氛圍弄得有些尷尬，我看到一個小孩光著腳丫子，蹲在河邊，看著大人釣魚。我問Puja，那小孩多大了，他樂呵呵地笑了起來，彼此語言的障礙，通過肢體語言輔助，表達著似懂非懂的日?，嵥?。

這個家伙，居然有兩個家，一個在“外頭”，一個在“家里”，妻子的默認態度，“縱容”了他認為的幸福生活。他說，大兒子已經工作了，自己買車，開車拉游客，養活了兩個“家”。Puja 的笑聲充滿了“顯擺”的氣息，哈哈大笑的眼睛，像季風吹來的印度洋海水。

神情創造了語言的巴別塔，我們就這樣，彼此在陌生人面前侃侃而談。

02 烏布街頭的手工藝品商鋪

03 頂著一盤香蕉販賣的當地居民

眾神住在椰子樹上

黑色的柏油馬路上，沒有白色的分道線，汽車游走穿梭在烏布黛綠色的山林中，熱帶雨林的空氣，裹挾著海水的味道，貼在茂密矗立的樹干上，浸潤了整片原始森林。

烏布，這座城鎮像八爪魚一樣，城鎮的觸須跟著狹長的公路，延伸到綠色的盡頭，這些觸須的兩旁，是手工藝品的聚集地，木雕、草編、油畫等店鋪延長了休閑的時間和距離。

我們一行四人，閑逛著往城市中心走去，人行道是鋪設的下水道蓋，一塊接著一塊，路旁放著印度教的祭祀花盤，商鋪把本身狹窄的公路擠得更加狹長。

從烏布皇宮返回酒店，是折回郊區的路線，天色已逐漸昏暗，遠處的天際線泛著昏黃的蒙影，灑落一地的祥和襲人心脾，人聲的鼎沸也慢慢成了身后的遙遠。工藝店鋪漸次熄燈，路燈強撐著這個世界的光明。這座城市的傍晚六點，沒有大都市的燈火輝煌。

04 烏布街頭的手工藝品

05 宗教雕塑無處不在

06 烏布街景

烏布的人生，仿佛是“日出而作，日落而息”。而宗教的信仰，讓島民活在當下，也享受當下。

圣泉寺的宗教雕塑、村落里的對稱生死門、自然圖騰符號和小小的神龕，都彰顯著對自然神力量的敬畏——面朝大海的海神，看似調皮的猴神，還有印度教的三大天神等，幾乎擬人化了整個自然界。

這座“神仙”島，是黑格爾古典主義美學的典范，但更加的感性。無論現代性如何蠶食傳統，對自然神的信仰和崇拜，讓巴厘島人的人生洋溢著別樣的灑脫。

有人說從新加披到印度尼西亞，是時空的倒退，新加披的現代都市之美，隨處彰顯技術與金錢的魅力，讓整座花園城市的天空都能聞到商務的氣息。印尼，這個島國，更像是原始生活形態下的自然而然，隨遇而安。

回酒店的路上，我們在一個小商鋪買菠蘿餡餅，遇到了一位美國小姑娘，媽媽戴著頭盔，騎著摩托車載著女兒，女兒自然地向當地小販買小吃。

我們相遇，彼此微笑，互打招呼。她們舉家遷到巴厘島，在田野里租了一棟小別墅，媽媽是瑜伽教練，女兒在烏布上國際學校，她很熱情地像當地人一樣，給我們介紹哪個地方好玩，什么地方有美食。

異域的美好，是因為短暫的邂逅，邂逅的緣分，不會像候鳥一樣規律。美麗的巴厘島，是一場季風吹來的相遇，終究會流散?？赡芤舱蛉绱?，美，總是與短暫共生，才會刻骨銘心，哪怕只是一場走馬觀花的旅行。

The Monsoon Blows through Indonesia

Article ＆ Figures | Tan Tao

The writer Sanmao liked to capture the changing feelings on the journey. Her description of these subtle emotional changes often strike an emotional chord with readers, like a breeze blowing through a beard, real but difficult to capture.

I packed only the essentials, hoping to become a wanderer, like Sanmao.

When I first set foot on the soil of Indonesia, what tickled my heart was not the excitement of first footsteps, not laughing bars and luxury hotels, not distant blue oceans and golden beaches, but a book that I read years ago-Imagined Communities. Perhaps affected by this book, the nationalist sentiments grew out of my imagined communal mentality, and I got the chance to witness the exotic look of Indonesia.

Exotic lands are always associated with words like, migration of the soul, watch from the sidelines, and the brevity of time.

The “Tower of Babel” in Language

From Denpasar, Bali, to Ubud, we decided to rely on our fate to rent a car temporarily. Whether by chance or God's plan, we met Puja, an enthusiastic driver.

Puja was a middle-aged uncle of medium build who likes to wear short black sleeves with a slightly protruding belly and dark complexion. His big eyes sparkled with calm, a typical optimistic person. This first impression, unconsciously in my mind, formed a symbolic impression of Bali men-warm and cordial characters naturally revealed in shyness and simplicity.

Puja loved to laugh, and always liked to incorporate the pidgin of language into his humor along the way. In this globalized world, Bali island has become a tower of Babel where different languages made a compromise and indigenous languages (Indonesian, Bali), English, Chinese can be found.

The car was driving on the narrow Ubud road, travelling through the city's hustle and bustle, heading towards the inland mountains. The villages on the outskirts of Ubud were red, lying in rolling green fields, wrapped in green paddy fields, like dots in this green field. You could spot some coconut trees occasionally. These towering coconut trees in the paddy field surprisingly decorated the village.

Puja introduced the village and the terraces in his poor English. He also translated the native language for us. When we understood him, we asked him how to pronounce it.

We passed a large supermarket, which was built on the outskirts of the city, and the car park outside was full of cars. As we were surprised by the flow of people, we also saw the cultural exchanges brought by economic development. The word tourism has shortened the distance between Europe, America, Oceania and Asia. In the supermarket of Ubud, you could see how strangers and different cultures interacted with each other.

When my companion walked into the supermarket, I stood by the roadside with the driver and handed him a cigarette. There was a brief silence. As we watched cars pass by, we felt a little awkward. I saw a barefoot child squatting by the river, watching an adult fishing. I asked Puja how old the child was, and he laughed happily. With his body language, I got to know his life despite language barriers between us.

This guy had two families, one "outside"and one "at home". His wife's tacit attitude "allowed" his extramarital affair, which he deemed as a happy life. He said his eldest son already had a job and his own car. He made a living by driving tourists, which also supported his father's two "families". Puja's laughter was full of "showing off". His laughing eyes looked like the monsoon blowing the Indian ocean.

Our looks and body languages were like the Babel of language, allowing us to talk to each other freely before strangers.

The Gods Live on the Coconut Tree

On the black asphalt road, there was no white separation line. The car traveled through the dark green mountain forest. The air of the tropical rain forest, with the smell of sea water, was blowing through the standing tall trees and infiltrating the whole primeval forest.

Ubud town was like an octopus. Its tentacles followed long, narrow roads to the end of the green zone, flanked by handicrafts, woodcarving, straw weaving, painting and other shops, giving tourists more time to travel and enjoy the leisure.

A group of four strolled towards the center of the city. The sidewalks were covered with paved sewer covers, with Hindu sacrificial dishes on the side of the road. Shops on the roadside made the narrow highway even more crowded.

Returning to the hotel from Ubud Palace was the route back to the suburbs. It was getting dark, and the distant skyline was covered with yellow shadows, giving people a sense of peace and comfort. The human noise was getting further away from us. Craft shops turned off their lights, leaving the street lamps light the place. At six in the evening, this city was not as bright as other metropolis that were ablaze with lights.

It seemed that islanders in Ubud "get up with the sunrise and rest with the sunset". And religious belief also allowed islanders to live and enjoy the present moment.

The religious sculptures of the temple, the symmetrical gates of life and death in the village, the natural totem symbols, and the small shrines all showed awe of the forces of nature-the sea-facing sea god, the seemingly mischievous monkey god, and the three gods of Hinduism, all personified the whole of nature.

This "fairy" island is a model of Hegel's classical aesthetics, but it is more sensual. No matter how modernity is nibbling away at tradition, the belief and worship of the natural deity allow Bali people to live a worry-free and comfortable life.

07 圣泉寺

08 烏布人家

09 行走在烏布街，仿佛眾神在身邊起舞

Some people say that the transition from Singapore to Indonesia is a retrogression in time and space. The beauty of the modern city of Singapore shows the charm of technology and money everywhere, allowing people to capture the atmosphere of business in the whole garden city. The island nation Indonesia, however, is more like a primitive form of life, giving you a sense of ease and comfort.

On our way back to the hotel, we were shopping for pineapple pies in a small shop where we met a little American girl with her mother. The mom had a helmet on her head and drove a motorcycle carrying her daughter, who was buying snacks from a local vendor.

We met, smiled and greeted each other. The family moved to Bali and rented a cottage in the fields. Her mother was a yoga instructor and her daughter attended an international school in Ubud. She enthusiastically told us places where we could have fun and enjoy the food like a local.

The beauty of travelling to an exotic land lies in fleeting encounter experiences and the unknown destiny, which will not be as regular as migratory birds. A monsoon brings us a chance to meet in the beautiful Bali, yet we'll eventually say farewells to others. Perhaps because of this, beauty is always transient and unforgettable. Even just a casual trip will also leave us beautiful memories to cherish.